I am writing this sat on the sofa in our new flat in
Manchester having arrived in good time. This post, however, is only going to
cover the first two days so you’ll have to hold your breath and be patient to
hear about the end of the journey.
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Rambo's "it is too early" face |
So, thinking back those days ago after I published the last
update (and we both wiped our tears from the awesome parting visit from our
neighbours) we finished packing in the dark which took only a few minutes and
then settled down to drink a glass of the excellent port before heading to bed.
As all of our bedding had been washed we went into the guest room to sleep
where I struggled at first before opening the window really wide and then the
fresh air helped and I dropped off. I woke up when the alarm sounded at 3.30 and
we were pretty much straight up and the brews were on before second thoughts
could occur. The first thing A did was go down and give Rambo a small bowl of
food but as you can see from this picture, taken even before that, he was not
that impressed at being woken at this time. Poor puppy, neither were we.
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All set for the off |
We had quite a list of things to do before leaving but for
me, once I heard him kick his bowl, getting Rambo into the back of Thomas was
the priority. He has not been in there for years, if ever, and I wasn’t sure
how much he would struggle. As it happens it was really easy though he growled
a bit purely with uncertainty as I boosted him up. He settled himself down and
went to sleep while we carried on with our leaving jobs.
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Even the camera couldn't see right |
We had to empty the fridge and freezer of the final few
things (frozen bread for the journey being the only thing in the freezer) was
up the last of the dishes, shower, tidy a few things, check all the doors and
windows and padlock any internal doors and then grab any final bits that we
suddenly realised we were leaving without. All this took about 1.5 hours from
the alarm going off so it was just before 5am when I stood at the outside front
door and engaged the padlock for the last time. The picture is blurry but that
is quite accurate in a sense as it was way too early to be leaving. The final
challenge was to lock the front gate with the new padlock which only just
fitted after a few tries and then the excitement of thinking we had left the
ferry tickets inside but finding them in a “safe place” I had moved them to the
night before. Sleep packing is never a good idea.
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Pre-dawn sky at our first break point |
As we drove away I said “goodbye” to the village, the local
town, the nearby main city (after fuelling up) and various other things as the
reality of leaving settled in. A was laughing at me a lot and that was good
too. As I was driving the first stretch A settled herself and dozed off leaving
me to contemplate the winter ahead. We got up onto the motorway towards Bourgas
and I was able to enjoy driving towards the sunrise as slowly but surely the
sky lightened towards day. A woke up around this time and then we saw a parking
area by the motorway so we pulled up to give Rambo a leg stretch, and snap
pictures of the sun. What a glorious sight. Rambo was super excited and pulled
as I walked him all the way up and then back so he could sniff everything and
maybe go to the toilet, but he was way too excited for that. Happily getting
him back into Thomas was easy as he almost jumped in himself; at least he
wasn’t unhappy in there.
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I wish these WERE rocket ships to mars |
A bit further up the road we were brought to a halt by a van
with flashing lights weaving across the lanes to allow for two huge lorries
with what looked like rocket motors (but which were probably some kind of
fractionating device for gas) on their backs. It took them a bit of time to
navigate out of where they had been stopped and then we were past and rushing
towards the east.
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It is down there somewhere |
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A furnace in the east |
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Threatening flat bottomed clouds |
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A super glow |
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Clouds gathering ahead of us |
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Netting to stop birds flying onto the carriageway |
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The road stretches out ahead of us |
All the time we were heading towards the rising sun and all
the time the sky was getting brighter and more amazing. We snapped pictures
from the moving car as we went though most were really blurry and didn’t come
out as well as we wanted. Enough did though and these are my favourites. You
can imagine how many we took to have this many come out OK. Yeah, we were a bit
snap happy and why not.
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And there it is, before the clouds enveloped it |
Finally the sun was fully risen and the day had begun for
everyone else, though we were a good couple of hours into the journey already.
The road was the super boring one which we have to drive along to get to Chaz
and Ivan’s and then we went past their turn off and even further along towards
Bourgas. While it is boring at least it is easy driving and it got the day off
to a positive feeling start.
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Zooming along a tree lined road |
After a while we swapped drivers,
which was great, and headed towards the north and our appointment to drop Rambo
off. It was great to sit then, rest my eyes, and get to enjoy the scenery. As
we were off the motorway we were heading up into the hills and driving along
tree lined country roads which were glorious as the autumn colours spread through
the trees. This picture was a lucky shot as I zoomed as I snapped and we were
also moving – I am really quite proud of it.
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Old planes mounted for display and a pretty church |
We swapped over drivers again and A was in position to grab
these two snaps firstly of a group of Russian military jets (in much funkier
poses than the one we found in our local town, but you wouldn’t be able to wing
walk on these) and a missile mounted by the side of the road, and then a really
pretty church. This was the first time I thought how nice it would be to do
this trip but with the opportunity to stop at these kind of sights; maybe we
can when we go back to collect Rambo next year as we’ll be driving this way
again.
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Giving Rambo a good rub and a cuddle at the kennels |
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Howling his goodbyes |
Anyway, about 10am or so we drove into Ken’s village and
then saw his van parked in front of his house and we were there. At first I
couldn’t see how to get in but then the gate opened and there they were, keen
to see Rambo again and get him situated, then provide us with a cup of tea,
some homemade breakfast muffins (lovely!) and a bit of advice for just over the
border into Romania. Rambo was a mix of super happy to see Ken and Margaret
again, and terribly sad to be behind a fence with me and A stood saying
goodbye. I really hope he settles in OK but with how much those two love him
I’m sure he’ll be grand.
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Getting her drive on |
I had done a large amount of the driving that morning so A
took over now and we made our way, following the sat nav, out of Ken’s village
and then up through the hills, woods and mountains. It was a lovely drive even
though the clear morning had given way to over cast and drizzle.
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More Roman roads, and a church with a tin spire |
The way was really easy and we drove along rather a lot of
what appeared to be Roman roads which stretched arrow like into the distance.
This is an ancient landscape and we saw some really old graveyards with rocks
instead of carved headstones in forests by the side of the road. This was also
the first time on the trip that I saw a tin roof on a church so I had to get a
picture of that.
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Just a bit of beer for England and Wales |
As we went through one larger town on the way we saw signs
for Kaufland and followed them as we had promised a friend to bring back as
much Zagorka as we could fit on. Imagine my happiness, however, when A suddenly
said “isn’t that tumna?!” and I saw a stack of Kamenitsa Tumna, the dark beer
which I have been waiting to come on sale (it is only sold over winter) and
hoping against hope would appear in the shops before we left. We filled the
trolley with 24 bottles of each, then added some random spirit as a gift for a
friend and we appeared to be fully functioning alcoholics at the checkout line. I reorganised the rear of the truck now Rambo
was no longer on board and stowed all the beer and then we set off again, still
with A driving.
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Driving onto the bridge over the Danube |
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Romania is announced |
Then all of a sudden we were at a border crossing, passports
shown, and then onto the bridge to cross the Danube into Romania. The first
picture was an accidental arty one as the map reflected in the windscreen and
the wiper was sweeping as a light rain was falling, as it had been on and off
for a few miles. The sign in the middle of the bridge caused much excitement as
we drove into our second country of the day.
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Camera held out of the window for this one |
On the other side of the bridge I held the camera (rather
riskily) out of the window of the car as high as I could get it to snap a
picture back over the Danube towards Bulgaria and against all the odds, and a
fifty mile an hour wind from our passage, it actually came out OK if a little
wonky. This is the last we’ll see of Bulgaria with our own eyes for five months
and I am not happy about that.
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One of many beautifully decorated churches in Romania |
Once we negotiated the passport control point on the Romanian
side of the bridge (again, with no problems at all) we reached a T junction and
my instinct told me to turn left to find the short cut advised by Ken but the
sat nav took us right and after 30 seconds of thought (and a short trip up the
road to the left followed by a U-turn) we decided to follow the sat nav. This
was a good choice in the end I think as there was no guarantee on us finding
the turning even if we had been meant to turn left. Romania is a beautiful
country and in my opinion (and A’s) they look after their houses and villages
much better than most Bulgarians. The major feature of Romania, however, is the
sheer number of churches even in the tiniest of hamlets and just how ornate
they are. It is a Catholic country and so ever church is painted outside with
icons. While I hate this on one level, on another they are so amazing to look
at and we added this to the list of things to do on a photography tour.
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Lunch on an impromptu table |
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A Romanian service station, and the strays |
The road from the border up to Budapest was really easy to
drive on and we made really good progress with no holdups at all until we were
really near the city. We then ground to a halt and sat for a minute or two
before creeping forwards until we were past what was obviously a major junction
as there were two policemen directing traffic; the delay was caused by the fact
that it was a cross roads with lots of turning traffic. After this there were
no more delays and we were out on the road to Pitesti and making good time. We
stopped briefly for lunch at what was billed as a “service station” but was
just a mud parking spot, a city-gas refuelling station (no petrol, diesel or
toilets) and a couple of stray dogs.
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Gorgeous tree and a really old cross |
What it lacked in amenities it more than made up for in
sights; here is a picture of the beautiful willow tree just up the road and a
stone cross that looked ancient and was in the middle of the road on a traffic
island. The stray dogs came up to the car to look for food but when none was
forthcoming gave a little woof and ran off; the owner of the petrol station
then put some food down for them which was really good to see.
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A classic photo of a classic Romanian view |
Romania really is a gorgeous country; I would recommend a
driving holiday over here to anyone, really, especially over the summer or
around this time as the trees are changing. Our weather had once again changed
to sunny for this part of the journey and the views were stunning. This vista,
taken just before we went over a river bridge, captures a lot of what we saw on
the journey. There are kids playing football in the foreground in a really well
maintained facility and then the gorgeous river with stunning mountains in the
background. While I definitely prefer Bulgaria, Romania comes a close second.
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Filthy weather as we entered an area of outstanding beauty |
A while after this the weather changed sharply and it was
just as we were starting to drive along the bottom of a stunningly beautiful
valley which wound for many miles alongside the river. This was a tourist area
and there were many hotels all along the edge of the road, some huge hulking
communist era concrete blocks and others ancient looking in a classical
Romanian style. There must have been 10,000 beds at least along this stretch of
road, and probably many more than that. There were a lot of people too, and it
seems this part of Romania is booming.
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Tree covered mountains and valleys |
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The river running through it |
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Gorgeous ridges which I wanted to climb to |
As we progressed up the valley (through off and on squalls
and heavy showers) we could see why they were coming; this was stunning
countryside and even in this bad weather it glowed. The road was precarious in
places, sometimes suspended above the water on stilts as the cliffs plunged hundreds
of feet down into the river and didn’t allow any purchase, but it was well
maintained and smooth for the most part. Once again we wished that we could
stop and look around a bit, and my walking feet were itching to climb the
ridges. One of these days for sure.
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A single shaft of sunlight breaks through the clouds |
When we left the valley our way took us along dual carriageways
and through a less dramatic landscape. There were quite a lot of roads shut, or
with short diversions, which added interest and we were also running a little
low on fuel and after seeing loads of petrol stations when we didn’t need any
now we could find one. The clouds were still gathered overhead but at one point
one single shaft of sunlight burst through and shone like a searchlight onto
one lucky place. I sent A scrambling for the camera to get this picture.
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A photograph for my dad |
This picture is purely in here for my dad and there will be
more like this; he has a thing for bridges and while this is a pretty boring
modern one, the way it sweeps across the valley is pretty impressive so I hope
you like it, father.
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Sunglasses on as I drive towards the sunset |
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The sun breaking through the clouds |
As the sun descended it came through the clouds more and
more and, as we were driving due west, this meant it was in my eyes. I knew I
had packed my sunglasses for a reason and so, for all of about five minutes, on
they went and I looked cool as anything. The single beam of sunlight from
before had been replaced by the more standard spread effect and you can see
more clearly here how the landscape had flattened since that scenic valley.
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Diesel goes into Thomas |
The fuel situation continued to deteriorate so finally we
decided to make use of the spare can of diesel in the back of Thomas. We pulled
up and I put the lot in then were back on our way without any troubles. It was
only a few more miles when we came to a fuel stop and I refilled Thomas and
then put more into the can. I didn’t realise at the time (obviously) but I did
what now must be called a habit and left the petrol cap for Thomas at that
stop, as I had with Julian on the way over. I think that was in Romania as
well. After this petrol station there were loads again so they must clump
together which is a bit silly. Surely it would be better to have them spread
out so you are always close to one.
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The sun drops just below the clouds |
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Through the tree |
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Sinking fast |
The sun was, as it will, continuing to set as we drove on
and it was putting on a magnificent show for us. We were starting to get a bit
tired by this point (about 7.20pm local time) after thirteen hours of driving
but by having short naps while not driving both of us were operating well
still.
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Riding the swell of air from the sun heated rock |
We were not the only people appreciating the stunning light
show; in the distance, and then closer as we drove on, we could see three
para-gliders hanging nearly motionless just off from a steep bluff and cliffs.
They were still there as the sun disappeared and I hope they got down OK before
the updrafts caused by the sun heating the rock face diminished too much. This
picture is also here for The Electrician who is into this sort of thing.
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Evening glow as we cross another river |
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A very large fortress in the distance |
The darkness was gathering however Romania was not totally
done with showing off its treasures. Here we have an excellent picture taken on
full zoom from a moving car by A of a massive fortress perched on top of a
steep hill which was right across the valley from where we were driving; we
took the picture just as a reminder to us never imagining it would come out OK
to be used here. Finally for Romania is yet another river we crossed; these
were very regular and highlighted another difference between Romania and
Bulgaria; the rivers in Bulgaria often don’t keep running all year and so aren’t
named however even the smallest trickle had a sign before and after the bridge
telling you what they called the waterway.
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Parked up and steaming gently |
We reached the Romanian – Hungarian border at about
10.20pm and, having stopped to get the Hungarian vignette from the kiosk on the
road into the border control area, sailed confidently forwards only to be
stopped round the corner by a huge queue which was not moving at all. We sat
and waited and waited and sat and slowly crawled forwards until it was clear
what the first delay was – the three lanes (two of cars, one of lorries)
reduced into two lanes for a pinch point before the remaining single lane for
cars then branched into four. Why they do this I don’t know but it wasn’t the
root cause of the holdup as we were to find out. When we finally reached the
front of the queue we saw that very humourless looking Hungarian customs
officers were stopping every car and making everyone open their boots, trailers
etc for an examination. It took us over half an hour to move the 100 yards or
so from the start of the queue to the other side of customs but at least they
didn’t ask me to open the roof box.
While we were in the queue we were hailed by the driver of a
white van in the lane next to us who had seen that we had Bulgarian plates and
he wanted to say hello. I said I Was English and he was impressed and said his
cousin was over there. This is just a simple example of how friendly Bulgarians
are; I commented to A that if it had been to British cars next to each other
they would have refused to even look over.
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Brewing up for A before we settled in for the night |
We pulled away from the border control point and made to
drive down the main road however there was a policeman directing us down a side
road and when the car in front dawdled I overtook then found myself confronted
by a police car parked across the road and no idea where to go. The cars I had
overtaken swung back round and headed further along the side road so I followed
and then I recognised where we were and at the end I pulled onto the verge and
we stopped for the night, just outside Mako which is where we had stopped on
the way. It was only about 10.30 but we were both so tired that I made a brew
for myself (A didn’t want one) using the tailgate of Thomas as a table and then
we pulled the rug over us and fell pretty much straight to sleep, even though
there was traffic from the border going past quite a lot through the night and
I had to pull the wing mirror in so their lights stopped shining right on me. To
give an idea of how tired the queuing had made me while I was parked I kept
saying “my brakes have gone spongy” as the lights of trucks moving on the other
side of the road gave me the illusion that I was rolling forwards. Scary and
not a state you really want to be driving in.
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A cautious start to the day was required |
We were both still asleep when an alarm started going off in
some buildings nearby. It sounded for a few minutes, then stopped, then started
again then stopped and when it started for the third time I checked my phone
and found that it was about 5.00am and so I went and made A a coffee which I
passed to her while she was still wrapped up in the blanket. It had been pretty
cold in the night and I hadn’t been able to get the blanket down to my feet
under the steering wheel so ended up laying across the seats at one point. With
the coffee in A’s hand I started the car and we made our way down the road and
into Hungary. It had been a beautifully clear night when we stopped with stunning
stars and moon however now there was fog and it was really thick. It was
actually quite a challenge to drive and the fact that the road were dead
straight for the most part, and the sat-nav gave me some clues, really helped.
Once again there were some random road closures and seemingly abandoned road works
which added to the fun but we kept safe.
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Bright moon above haze in the lower country |
I drove until we were on motorways and then we stopped at
the first rest point so I could make a brew for myself then A took over so I
could get some rest. The mist was a little clearer at this point so the moon
was visible again however as we drove it descended and it was pretty much
constant throughout the morning. Hungary is a super boring country anyway so we
weren’t missing much other than run down communist era towns and mess – at least
from the memories I have of the trip there.
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No smoking signs on everything |
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Pizza and cappuccino for breakfast |
About the only thing of note to happen in Hungary was when
we stopped for breakfast at a petrol station I was most amused at the super
tidy dining tables outside looking like they had never been used once and all
with a “no smoking” sign on. I suppose this is fair enough considering it was a
petrol station but it amused me none the less. We bought some slices of pizza
from the cafe inside and took them out to sit on these tables; it was rather nice
actually and good to just rest even for only a few minutes before getting back
in the saddle. We stopped again once more in Hungary to pick up the vignette
for Austria which we bought at a really busy service station which was jammed with
Japanese tourists and children – hell on earth in other words.
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This is what a border check point should look like |
Leaving Hungary was as easy as entering had been difficult.
We almost didn’t notice when we were suddenly upon a border post and flying
through into Austria on the other side. Hungary had taken all of four hour of
driving to get over and it didn’t deserve any stops or any more photographs
than we took.
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Huge wind turbines as the road goes under and eco bridge |
And so to Austria which is immediately a much more
interesting country even if this is only due to the sheer number of wind
turbines which cover the land for miles and miles. Austria was the first place
we saw eco-bridges on this trip as well; these are standard looking road
bridges over the carriageway which have trees and bushes growing all over them
to provide a safe passage for wildlife. This picture shows both a load of wind
turbines and an eco bridge.
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Austria is far more interesting than Hungary |
In contrast to the flat and boring Hungarian countryside
Austria immediately became rolling wooded hills with distant ridges and peaks to
add interest. The road wound through valleys and over ridges but was good
quality and we kept a good pace up. Our speed had been dictated by the fact
that Thomas starts drinking fuel thirstily as soon as his engine goes over
3000rpm so we were keeping it just below that, which translated to a steady
65mph.
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Suddenly the mist is back |
At one point just as we went over a hill and round a corner
we were confronted once again by the fog which had disappeared near the border.
It was really quite sudden and at first I thought it was smoke but it continued
for a fair few miles. I suppose that as we are firmly in autumn having low
lying fog and mist is to be expected. It was never so thick as to represent a
danger and we kept our speed up throughout.
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A location from the trip over |
I got quite excited when I suddenly noticed that we were
about to pass a hotel which my parents had stayed at (while I had been outside
in Julian) and got A to snap a load of pictures. I wasn’t too sure at the time
but now I am convinced and they will probably confirm this in the comments (if
they haven’t fallen asleep by this time, nearly 4,400 words into this post). I
can remember so well sitting on my camp chair just up in the corner near the
building stealing the WiFi to send and update to you lovely people.
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And so we were suddenly in Germany |
We entered Germany at pace as we didn’t even have to slow
down for the border, and totally missed the “Welcome to Germany” sign so you
get this speed limit explanation sign instead. As you can see the weather was
now firmly set to “lovely” and it was really starting to warm up nicely.
Germany is also a beautiful country so there was lots to look at while not
driving, though we were continuing our habit of cat naps as and when.
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A turbine blade on a train - they are HUGE! |
Germany is also a land of many wind turbines and they appear
to be putting more up. We saw one huge pylon with no blades on it, surrounded
by service vehicles and then a little later there were huge trains stopped in
sidings with the blades on their trucks. The picture isn’t that great as we
were going fast and I saw it at the last minute but you get the idea.
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Our picnic spot, and the kettle whistling away |
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Lovely warm weather to lay in |
At about 1pm local time we pulled into a rest station for a
toilet break and to have some lunch. The sun was shining so nicely that we
decided to drag the rug onto the grass and brew up as well as eat and this was
a brilliant idea. Even though we only stopped for about fifteen or twenty
minutes we still got to relax and I could so have slept there in the sun for
ages.
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German engineering at its best |
Here is some more bridge photography for my dad and I am
sure I remember driving over this with them and my mum trying to get a picture
from underneath the overhang on Julian. This has definitely come out better.
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A couple of the rivers we drove over |
We drove over many bridges like the one in that previous
photograph and tried at every one to get a good picture of the water but it was
tough from our road position to do this. The barriers also got in the way a lot
and I resorted again to holding the camera out of the window to get a better
angle.
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A building of some sort on a distant ridge |
Once again there was a lot to see on the way (and yes the
implication of that statement is I am cutting out photographs which I could
easily put in here and type about for the sake of brevity. Stop laughing. I
am!) and here I present to you another example of superb photographic work at
full zoom and long distance with high speed thrown in. I can’t work out whether
it is a church or a fort but it was a long way away and deserved the attempt at
a shot.
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Two wind turbines bracket the setting sun |
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Really wide open sky as the day ends |
We were making excellent progress having hit no traffic at
all since the night before at the border and now the sun was setting ahead of
us as we went almost directly westwards. We stopped for fuel before carrying on
and I have selected two of the best pictures of the sunset as we wound through
hills and into and out of its light, with my sunglasses once again making an
appearance. I am particularly pleased with the one setting between the two wind
turbines as I spotted it was about to occur and prompted A to play photographer
once again.
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Red lights and red sky |
There were a lot of road works along the way but they were
short stretches over bridges which didn’t take long to get past and didn’t
generate any tailbacks. We had seen that there was a hotel at the place we
refuelled but I wanted to drive on a bit further and this seemed to backfire as
we saw a truck put its hazards on and then we were at a standstill with traffic
stretching ahead as far as we could see. We crawled along for a while and then
did a sat-nav search for hotels nearby but the top two results involved going
back on ourselves for 12 miles or so. I related the story of my search for a
hotel with my parents in Sofia and we made the call that we should just keep
going forwards, towards our ultimate destination, and stop when we found a
place.
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Our room and our dinner |
This turned out to be a really good decision as the traffic
cleared after about 20 minutes of delay and we then found a service stop with a
restaurant and a hotel not much further up the road. We parked, grabbed our
stuff, and made our way towards what we thought was the hotel but then I
spotted a road sign pointing further away so we were back to Thomas and went to
the other side of the motorway where there was a large hotel. After a bit of
confusion we found the check in desk, paid for the room and received a free
WiFi key which worked when I logged on before we went down for dinner.
Unfortunately when we came back up (the food was pretty good) it was not connecting
any more but as tired as I was I stopped caring and just turned the laptop off.
We were asleep in a really comfortable bed by about 9pm which was just what I
needed. We did have to open the window as the air conditioning appeared to be set to blow hot air whatever setting you put it on, but we were that much warmer than the night before even with this.
So this has turned out to be a really long post covering the
first two days, there are over 5000 words in it and 65 photographs. I will
finish off the journey in an update to be published tomorrow so don’t worry,
there is more.